Cutting side plates: the total size of the side plates is 36 \"high x 28. 5\" wide.
The compressed PDF contains the outline file. -
Spread the medium fiber board on some sawGet out a T-
Square, pencil and tape measure. -
Draw the profile of the side plate or transfer the profile of the side plate to the medium board.
I have a printed full size pattern but I don\'t want to look at it so I copied it to the mid-fiber board.
* It may be easier to remove the mid-fiber board with a round or table saw to make it easier to manage. -
Jigsaw puzzle with rough blades (15 or so TPI )
Cut out the panel carefully.
Cutting outside the line is easy to take away more wood and it\'s hard to fix bugs.
So take your time.
The image below shows me fixing the edges of the mid-fiber board with some Bondo. -
Repeat, make another side panel for a total of 2 panels.
Sanding the edge of the side plate: no matter how well the side plate is cut, they will still not be exactly the same. -
Stack two new side panels together and align the back and bottom.
* Please note that the rest of the cuts may not be completely correct. -
Clip two pieces together in at least 4 places. -
In order to trim them, I mainly used the 12 \"standing disc sander, which requires a little muscle and mobility, but most of my sides are completely flush, then a more difficult point was completed with a file and a random track Sander.
Test to install the monitor: knowing the best location of the monitor helps to see things.
Skip it if you know better. -
Expand the side plate and place a side plate on a solid surface. -
Put the Monitor in a good position and I ended up improving it a lot from where I first got it.
I suggest to raise it to the highest possible level. -
Mark it with a pencil and remove the monitor.
Support beam: Track the external dimensions of each 2x4 when placed correctly. -
2x4 support drops in the back-
Bottom corner, use the scrappiecmdf MDF to measure the distance it enters from the back. -
There is a 2x4 support on the top. -
2 2x4 supports monitor, use the line drawn when testing to install monitor position, extend 2x4 up to the control in front of Monitor and further control, but not all the way, because the PC will be accessed from there.
Therefore, there should be marks for placing 4 2x4. Screw Holes:-
Re-clamp the two side plates together so that the side plates with the display and the 2x4 Mark are facing out.
Align and clamp them.
When drilling, they are in exactly the same position on both side panels. -
Where 2 x 4S are tracked, 2 holes with uniform spacing are measured for each 2x4. -
Drill holes using a 3/16 drill. all 8 of them-
Loosen the side plate. -
Select the panels on both sides and mark them. -
Put a panel flat and face up on the outside. -
Using a countersunk bit, all 8 holes in the countersunk head, test the mounting screws to determine what depth they should have. -
Repeat with the other side panel.
I will list the sizes that need to be cut here, but I will wait and cut them as you need them to measure your size first in case there is a difference.
Other wood parts that need to be cut :-
21 \"x 4\" Masonite for flipping the front of the drawer-
2x2 \"x 21\" density board for drawer holder and front. -22\" x 16.
25 \"Masonite, which will allow space for the display that is cut off from it. -
The 22 \"x 11\" density board for the button panel will be cut into its shape later. -
The mid-fiber board of the bottom panel 18 \"x 22\" is slightly smaller, so there is room for the speakers in front. -
4x21 \"2x4 s long. -9.
25 \"x 21\" medium fiber board, top panel-2.
5 \"x 21\" density board, above the monitor, below the box-4.
5 \"x 21\" mid-fiber boards, bottom front panel, speaker holes will be cut out of it.
It would be easier if they were cut before sticking to the glass.
Measure and add other parts for 2x 4S :-
Assemble 2 side panels with 4 x 4S.
It is helpful to have a 24 \"bar clip that holds everything tightly together. -
Try to keep calm and tight when assembling, otherwise it will cause headache in the future. -
Use a small piece of medium fiber board to measure the distance from the edge of 2x4 s so that the rest of the part is flush.
Bottom panel: to help it stay rigid, now is a good time to install the bottom panel. -
I want to have a little space between the bottom panel and the bottom of the cable, so I measured 1 up.
5 \"from the bottom, draw a line on each side plate. -
Bring your 21 \"x 18\" density board and apply a glue to the edge of it, which will touch the side panel. -
Using the line, place the panel at the bottom to make sure it\'s even. -
Slide it back so the speakers can have a gap in front of the cab.
Most of the upgrade work is done now, and the rest of the panels have time.
I forgot to take a lot of photos here.
But the rest of the panels are glued together. -
Top panel, make sure it is flush with front and topBottom-
The font panel extends along the bottom-most, perhaps drilling holes for the speakers first and then sticking them in, which would have a little weight, so make sure it\'s a good stand. -Bottom-
Marquee panel, which is a small water level panel located under marquee and above the monitor. -Back-
Bottom panel, once the last panel is dried and glued, it should be flush to the back, bottom, screwed to the bottom 2x4 at the back.
The display needs to be tested and installed in order to make the baffle. -
Put the monitor in the cabinet. -
Adjust it before and after to make it the right angle.
Adjust with some scrap wood and screws.
The bezel uses a hard panel, and for this cabinet the bezel is 22 \"wide x 16.
25 \"high, height depends on the thickness of the control panel, 16.
If your panel is thicker or thinner, 25 \"tall for 1/2\" density board.
The border is flush with the bottom box panel, which leaves space at the bottom. -
Cut the bezel off some hard plates. -
There is a display in the cabinet, and you can find out what size holes are cut out from the hard board and where to put them specifically.
Proper measurement is critical, even making a cardboard model before moving on to the next step. -
Transfer your size to the hard board
Cut the space carefully.
I use a drill bit in the corner instead of cutting the corner into a corner with a jigsaw puzzle.
It is then done with a rough file until the display shows that it has been drawn, but this is in the next steps.
Also, it is possible to drill holes for the QuickKey adapter later, which is programmed to perform key combinations and hotkeys from a single button.
So, if it\'s easier, skip it now.
I hope the keyboard is well hidden and easy to access and use.
I brought two drawers and a flip.
Hide its front panel.
Some new machines flip the panels.
Button panel support :-
The 2x2 \"x21\" mid-fiber board strips should have been cut. -
Position as shown in the figure, 1 strip is placed vertically at the top of the button panel. -
As shown, place the second bar near the bottom.
The hinge will be attached to this hinge later. -
Stick them together. Hinge & Door:-
First align the hinge on the flapdown panel(4x21\"Masonite)-
The center of the hinge should extend along the edge of the center. -
It is enough to mark and drill holes from some nuts and bolts, but more is better. -
Drill some holes on the other side of the hinge that will screw into the 2 \"bars. -
Center the hinge and door at the opening and screw in from the bottom. Drawer Glides:-
Test the mounting drawers slide and you want them to be as low as possible, so the keyboard and amplifier will be placed below.
Therefore, they should eventually be flush with the top of the horizontal 2 \"bar that the hinge is screwed from the bottom
Draw a straight line from the bottom measurement to both sides that can be used to align the drawer slide. -
Once they get straight, screw them in with some low-key screws (round top)
* Forget to take photos before the tray is installed.
But very simple. Tray:-
Measure the width of the two drawers to slide together. -
Subtract the results from 21 \"to find the width of their tray. -
Use some solid loose to use a medium fiber board or I ~ 11 \"-
The front and side edges of the router or file. -Sand smooth-
In black or the color you like
One or two layers of polyurethane are optional.
I forgot to take this picture before installing it, but it\'s just a plate with a round edge.
Fill all screw holes :-
Make sure all the screws stick together and you\'re sure you don\'t need to take anything apart again. -
Fill all the holes using some sandable wood filler.
Remember-
Fill it up so it can be polished down. -
Wait until the wood filling is completely dry and the sand is smooth.
About 100 of coarse sandpaper works fine. -
Smooth all the holes. Painting:-
Use foam roller-
I use MDF Latex paint, which is recommended by the store clerk. -
Apply a few pieces between several coats waiting for it.
I made six coats. -
Especially the rough edges.
There are a lot of options for the button layout and I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what is best.
Ready control panel :-
Decide the layout, I have some options in the ZIP below. -
Print or lay out your pattern on the 22 \"x 11\" mid-fiber board previously cut. -
Before doing anything, cut the front edge and should be rounded evenly. -
If the panels are all cut off and the edges are done the way you like, please proceed if you do not consider doing so again. -
Now put down the pattern, mark all the holes, mark the button holes in different ways, and then say the holes of the screws that support the joystick.
Remember which side of the panel you want.
* My Button needs 1/8 inch holes and your may be different so check it out.
I drill as much as I can with my drill bit and then use my old Rockwell power drill (
About 1960, still valid)
Finish the other holes. -
Make sure the holes are straight and on their mark. -
Drill out all the control buttons. -
I saw the stick hole with the same 1/8 hole-
Drill the mounting hole of the joystick with a 1/8 bit. -
Optionally, use a countersunk bit to sink the hole to use v-head screws-
Or don\'t drop them counter, round. top screws. Finishing:-
Sand on the edge
Paint it a few layers.
Apply any tags or other tags, vector files for my design in the ZIP file. -
Apply several layers on several layers of polyurethane.
The USB controller adapter I am using for this is the USB Xin Mo Arcade controller purchased from arcade Paradise, which is a good deal, it connects all the wires with curly connectors, USB cables, easy to install.
I highly recommend it.
Buy through eBay or arcade paradise for $28. Electronics:-
Install all buttons and joysticks with a plastic ring attached to the button that is removed, otherwise the button will get higher from the panel. -
Align the micro switches when placing buttons so you can plug them into the USB controller adpater. -
It is enough to mark its mounting holes with a USB controller adapter, drill holes and install some brackets. -
First, connect all the buttons and joysticks to their correct title, as shown in the figure. -
After you have finished and arranged, connect all the commonly used labels together, see the chart.
RGB led and controller: optional-
Find the central location of the mounting controller, marking and mounting bracket-offs.
Stick the controller on it-
The LED button can be modified to use the rgb led, please check this description for details-
Connect all 12 White LED button buttons with rgb led and cut 4 conductor ribbon cables while measuring.
Mark the anode wire with sharpie. -
The 48-channel mono/16-channel rgb led controller uses a co-anode LED and all LED anode should be connected in parallel.
To do this I drilled 2 holes along each side of the PCB with the terminals and extended from 5 v on the PCB through the holes to the top, so there is a track that can weld the theLED anode to see the picture-
I have used some dual stock lines and compatible housing to get 5 v voltage from PC power supply to LED controller.
Fix all the LED and controller wires with a zipper, tape or whatever you like.
Block: I don\'t want to screw into the control panel or anything, it\'s a great access point for PC and speakers, so I\'m stuck on some blocks.
Therefore, the panel can be lifted easily. -
Place the button panel on the cable. -
Mark the side and front with a pencil from the bottom
I used 1 piece and cut some medium fiber boards.
5 \"x ~ 6, the other side is 1.
5 \"x 4\" and the joystick blocked the road so it had to be shorter. -
Mark with pencil and glue the block in place-
Let it dry a little so it becomes tacky but still can slide. -
Carefully put the button panel back in place. -
Slide into the corner from the bottom and let dry. -
The control panel can be removed and a little glue can be glued to the cabinet. -
After some other adjustments it wasn\'t as tight as it was, so some electronic tape was applied to the block, which made it very tight again.
Don\'t twist when playing
Once dry, the button panel can be lifted and will not slide when it is in place.
Speaker: 3 5/8 hole saws were used for 3.
5 \"the speaker did not notice that the speaker was actually 3.
25 \"diameter, so I left a gap on the edge and I was going to install them in front, but for this reason I installed them from the back and the fan cover/grill on top, the gap is covered.
The speaker is Pyle PLX32 2-
The price of the speaker is $16, free shipping, so not bad, sounds good, small enough for space use.
They are driven by LP-
It is small in size and relatively cheap in price with Treb/Bass/volv control knob and blue light up.
I want to put two tweeters on both sides of the display, but after hearing the bottom speaker, there is no need for a tweeter.
I didn\'t think of the size of the hole saw with a large rod (1/2\")
So it is not suitable for the Chuck that I drilled by hand.
I ended up taking my little rig off the stand and using it as a huge hand drill and once I lined it up it actually worked fine. -
Fix the wires well, don\'t get in the way, they will run later. -
Finally attach your speaker grill.
Front panel: USB, audio, FireWire-
This is on the original computer, connected to the motherboard.
* Choose a good place, consider where the motherboard is and how far it can be, I hardly have enough slack to get to where I cut the hole and where the motherboard is, all the brackets have been installed, another 1/4 \", I had to move the motherboard.
The front panel connection I used to be very easy and all the ports are in the sheet metal case. -
Saw a hole with 2 \"holes-
Cut out the corner with a lock eye saw. -
Screw in from the back-
Trace the original plastic cover back to a piece of 50mil polystyrene-3 \"x 3\"
Cut out the hole. -
Paint it black with some Krylon Fusion
Attach it to the cab with foam tape and replace it with some stainless steel screws in the future. -
Finally, use a round square vinyl decal.
I chose an old computer for this.
I got 4 ghz AMD Athlon for free.
1 gb ram, 350 w atx power supply, install Windows XP on a smaller/older hard drive (2. 5\")
And DVD drives.
Install PC parts :-
Keep in mind the length of the wires and wires, test if the motherboard, hard drive and PSU are appropriate, try different arrangements and find a good one. -
Once laid out, Mark all mounting holes on the bottom panel with a marker pen or pen and use the motherboard as a template. -
Mark any holes or mounting brackets for PSU and HDD-
Remove all PC parts-
Use a small piece to drill out the marking of the motherboard. -
Install some brackets
Every dress should be suitable for real comfort. -
Drill out any other holes for installing the hard drive or PSU.
I use some small wooden screws to tie the hard drive and PSU in metal. -
If you use a normal graphics card, there won\'t be anything that can be installed vertically, and the pressure can damage it, so I tied it up with some rope.
Safe now. -The DVD-
The ROM drive is stuck under the keyboard tray and I regret that it is even stuck in the keyboard tray and it is barely used.
The rest of the PC cabling :-
There are already big hurdles now, no matter what situation you are experiencing, complete the connection of all cables, USB, serial, IDE, SATA. -
Organize all cables bundled or wrapped or otherwise to ensure a good airflow for the PC. Amp:-
I installed the amp on the keyboard tray to make it easy for the knob to be held down by several screws along the way back. -
Trim the speaker wire to length and connect the wire to the speaker.
Backlight and mirrors :-
The reflector is made of a piece of 50mil polystyrene and is coated with a silver reflective film on it. (
Forgot to take the picture)-
Wooden support block (pictured)
Stick to the cabinet. -
When the LED light strip is applied to the reflector, about 12 v, 2 of the width of the cabinet are used. -
Connect the LED light strip to the PC power supply using the speaker wire.
Marquee: if there\'s anything on the cabinet that should be customized, it\'s this one.
ArcadeAction is the name of the computer/cabinet.
It contains a template designed by itself. -
Cut a piece of plexiglass to fit, apply the black vinyl font back from the back and leave the White pre-templated paper on top to spread the light ,-
Drill out from the corner and screw in and cover the edges with black tape. -
This will get a color in the future-
Use the full box of the backlight transparent film.
Bezel: The bezel should have been cut and painted. -
If you install the QuickKey adapter, follow these steps-
Find out the spacing and Mark, then drill holes for the button, using a 9/64 bit
Weld all buttons to perf
Board, all buttons should have 1 wire connected in parallel, which will be grounded. -
Sell the wire to the lead of another button and connect it to the controller using the title/Shell. -
Insert the perfboard button assembly into the hole and fix it with adhesive tape or hot glue. Bezel Artwork:-
Color Vinyl and printed decal art are included in the ZIP file. -
The button at the bottom is optional, but is used with the QuickKey adapter.
This is a HID keyboard, each of the 9 buttons on the border is linked to a hotkey.
For example, minimize, maximize, display the desktop, open the
touch screen launcher, close the program, Alt Ctrl Delete (
Open Task Manager)and more. -
Button decals are printed and laminated and artwork can be found in the ZIP file.
Turn the keyboard down :-
Forgot to take a picture, but a picture is shown below.
There is Art in the ZIP file-
Apply the decal to the paint.
This is made of colored vinyl and printed decals. -
The push-in open cabinet latch was installed from the hardware store, one on each side, but I stuck the metal contact part to it instead of screwing it.
Liquid nails were used for this purpose.
The Sprite used to create the graphics was found on www. mariomayhem.
Com/download/Sprite/super_mari_bros_sprites. php Assembly:-
To install and connect the display, I fixed the display in the proper position with some steal bundles and some wooden blocks. -
Install the control panel to make sure all USB cables and power cables are connected. -
The baffle is installed and the mine pressure is mounted on the display, but may need to be tightened or bonded. -
Connect the perforated masonite board to the display. -
Connecting the speakers and the AMP, I modified a molex adapter so that I could plug the amp into 12 v from the PC power supply. -
Fix all the wires and cables in the arcade cabinet. Computer settings :-
Install Windows XP-
Install any motherboard, graphics or touch screen driver-
Update Windows all the way. -
If using the touch screen, a lot of changes can be made to make it easier to use, I have a good guide but lost the link and try Google.
But it includes changing icon size, scroll bar size, and miscellaneous. other changes. -
Install any software you want like MAME, JNES, etc. -
Install and configure the optional touch screen starter. Please check my other instructions in my profile.
Color System.
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